Chanel's recent purchase of a 25 percent stake in independent watchmaker MB&F showcases a growing trend in the Swiss watchmaking industry. This move is not about major brands overpowering smaller ones, but rather about blending luxury with independent creativity. Chanel describes MB&F as a "high-end creative watchmaker," acknowledging the brand's unique approach to watchmaking. Founder Max Büsser has always emphasized that the watchmakers are the "Friends" at MB&F, with his input focused on the creative and business aspects of the brand.
Interestingly, Chanel has been connected to MB&F since the beginning. The luxury brand purchased GF Chatelain, a casemaker for MB&F, in 1993. GF Chatelain continues to play a role in MB&F's production, mainly in the creation of buckles. Chanel has a history of investing in small independent watchmakers, such as Romain Gauthier and FP Journe, without compromising their independence. It is expected that Chanel's acquisition of MB&F will follow the same pattern.
There are questions about Büsser's intentions, but he assures that MB&F will remain independent. In a press release, Büsser stated that the investment by Chanel will secure the long-term future of the brand and provide access to Chanel's wider ecosystem and network of suppliers, without pressuring them for growth. Büsser and his partner Serge Kriknoc remain the majority shareholders of MB&F, with Büsser holding a 60 percent stake and Kriknoc holding 15 percent. Chanel's stake is presumed to have been carved out of Büsser's portion.
