Clare Waight Keller, the first female creative director of Givenchy, recently announced her departure from the Maison after three years. During her time there, she paid homage to the brand's heritage while making it relevant for modern times. Waight Keller's designs were praised for their creativity, including her work in womenswear, menswear, and haute couture. Similarly, Stefano Pilati served as the head of design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and used the brand's expertise in fabrics to create luxurious menswear collections.
Both Waight Keller and Pilati followed the traditional path of gaining experience at multiple fashion houses before taking on creative roles. Waight Keller worked at Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and Gucci, while Pilati worked at Giorgio Armani, Prada, Miu Miu, and Yves Saint Laurent. Despite their experience, neither designer was hired by another major fashion house.
Last year, Waight Keller announced her partnership with Uniqlo, launching a new brand called Uniqlo : C. The brand focuses on creating staple pieces with Waight Keller's designer touch. Recently, she expanded her involvement to become the creative director for the entirety of Uniqlo's mainline collection. Pilati also ventured into affordable fashion with his brand Random Identities, inspired by Berlin's club scene and gendered clothing. He has also collaborated with Zara for an upcoming capsule collection.
Designer collaborations with fast-fashion brands are common, but it is uncommon for designers to transition from luxury to more affordable fashion brands for their solo ventures. Both Waight Keller and Pilati spoke highly of their experiences working with Uniqlo and Zara, praising their openness to new techniques and their ability to produce high-quality pieces at affordable prices.
While it remains to be seen how Waight Keller's Uniqlo and Pilati's Zara collection will be received, their ventures represent a hope for skilled fashion designers to bring their talents to a wider audience. They may not be working for big fashion houses, but they are contributing to the elevation of everyday fashion for everyone.